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 Cancun, Playa Del Carmen and the mexican riviera
April 28, 2008  The view from under my palapa at the Aqua Cancun hotel Yes, Cancun is very developed - high rise hotels line the once pristine beaches - not the typical destination for an "adventure" traveler like myself.
 For true indulgence, rent a cabana for the day at Aqua Cancun!  Three lucky, and very colorful, residents of Aqua.
But, even I need to relax once in while and if you want unimaginably white sand, unfathomable turquoise sea and sensual tropical breezes, it's still hard to beat Cancun. I was here twenty years ago and cannot even recognize the place due to the four lane roads and endless resorts lining the coast.
The trick is to find a resort that suits your personality, then sequester yourself - enjoy relaxing by the pool with a margarita, reading under a palapa, or flopping around in the turquoise water.  Aqua Cancun - ahhhhhhh.... It's amazing how quickly you switch gears and settle into "manana" time and siestas!
Aqua is a 1st class spa hotel minus the pomp and stuffiness. It's a complete experience in relaxation. The curved, sweeping lines of the glass dominated architecture; soothing ethereal music; sensual scents of aroma therapy; the warm greeting of the staff - hands crossed over heart with a softly spoken Mayan "in laakech", meaning "you are me, and I am you"; within minutes of arriving you become one with the a genuine calm of Aqua.
May 2, 2008 So, we extracted our lazy, thoroughly relaxed selves from the tender caress of the Aqua resort, pushing check out to the last possible minute.  With our late departure from Cancun, we set a modest goal of navigating our rental car to Playa del Carmen, a mere 70 km. OK, I know, not very ambitious, but what can I say, we ARE in Mexico! I am now looking at our little red car, parked in front of our delightful, Italian run hotel, where we left it two days ago. It has not moved.
 I was in Playa del Carmen 15 years ago, and as with Cancun, I cannot recognize the place - what was once just the port where you took the ferry to Cozumel, is now a small city. Amazing what gorgeous beaches can do for, or to, a place...
 The tan is making good progress!  If you are looking for serenity, and deserted beaches, Playa del Carmen is not for you.  Margaritas and "ceviche" (fresh fish marinated in lime) on the beach - yum!  The beaches are packed - techno music blaring from some "beach clubs", the center is very touristy - with it's own "5th Avenue" of shops and restaurants, and there is construction on every corner.
On the other hand, there are Italian restaurants with pasta "fatta in casa", you can rent comfy lounges and umbrellas at the main beach, the water is spectacular, and there is plenty to do - both night and day, for those with more motivation than us.
I wasn't expecting to like what has become of Playa, but I have to admit, we are thoroughly enjoying it!  'Three Tenors' perform on 5th Avenue in Playa del Carmen.
May 4, 2008  Ok, if you were worried we were not getting our money's worth out of our rental car (a shiny, red VW - $40. per day) we have spent the last 2 days exploring! Here's the scoop... Tulum beach cafe Tulum is a Mayan ruin overlooking the turquoise sea - the structures are not particularly impressive, but the setting is.  Here's what you get at Tulum Beach for approx. $150. per night Since I was here last, the archeological site has become a major attraction, and the "hotel zone" along the beach has grown from a few very basic beach bungalows to over 60 accommodations, with something to suit all budgets and tastes.
Akumal The entire coastline of what is now called the "Riviera de Maya", which spans from Cancun to Tulum, is now developed - mainly with resorts, and a few public access "beach clubs", where you can get a chair, food and drink - at some you pay a small fee for chair rental, and others, as long as you drink and eat, the chairs are free.
  Akumal Beach, Yucatan Riviera de Maya coastline Akumal used to be a small dive resort. It's fully developed now, mostly with condominiums, and still known for excellent diving and snorkeling. 
May 5, 2008  Beach in Playa del Carmen The image I showed in my past dispatch from Playa shows a street that is being paved and a large resort under construction, and probably doesn't look too appealing. Don't be mislead by that! The town has actually done a very nice job of managing the growth.  Our new buddies - Luis Alfonso & Afredo (Rocky) - the "Tourist Police"  Sand streets are being covered with interlocking pavers to create wide boulevards, there is a 4-story height restriction on buildings, the tourist police patrol in cute electric cars, the utilities have been put underground in some areas. The almost mile-long "5th avenue" is a nice stroll past a fun mix of bars, restaurants and shops.   
www.FiestaBanana.com Our hotel in Playa del Carmen - The Fiesta Banana - right on 5th Avenue, down in the less touristy end of the street, run by Italians. Great cappuccino and fun to listen to Italian being spoken all around you!
May 6, 2008
We happened to be here over Mexican labor day weekend - Saturday night the streets were buzzing with mariachi bands and locals belting out the passionate ballads. Everyone seemed to know the words to each song - I was envious - I will have to get a song book and learn the lyrics for next time.
Playa del Carmen is very international, you hear many different languages being spoken and meet people from all over the world.
 All ages partying in the streets of Playa del Carmen.  
Beach excursion... If you have rental car, or you can take a taxi, one of the nicest beaches we found is about a half hour south of Playa del Carmen - the Xpu-Ha area.
 At Playa Bonanza there is public beach access and parking, then you can walk down the beach to find a good spot. You may want to bring a sun umbrella. If they are not too busy with guests, there is a hotel beach club that will let you have chairs as long as you eat and drink. 
My kind of 'al fresco' dining!
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